If the car is pointing downhill this is very easy.
You still have to select the gear you want - 1st or reverse (very important reverse if you are reversing so you are giving the signal of your reverse lights to other road users) but keep the clutch all the way down. (if you are moving off remember your POM routine)
Controling the speed of the car now is just a case of gentle pressuer on the footbreak, more pressure to slow the car down, less to let it go faster.
At slow speeds it is NOT considered coasting to have the clutch down.
For clutch control - if you are uphil or on the flat.
As the clutch at bite point controls how much the engine is conected to the wheels, tiny movments of the clutch will effect the speed of the car.
So you keep the clutch at the bite point and just move it very tiny amounts as you need to.
If you bring the clutch up a tiny bit then the engine is more connected to the wheels and the car goes slightly faster. If you dip the clutch slightly then the engine is less connected to the wheels and the car slows slightly.
Remember the momentum of the car will mean it will take longer to slow down the faster you go.
You are looking for a slow walking pace
It is good to practise this uphil as gravity will help slow the car more and you get a better feel for the clutch. You can also get to the point where the power of the engine pulling the car forwards is balanced by gravity pulling the car back and the car stops moving. It is useful to practise this as many junctions are on a hill so you could use the clutch to creep out past obstructions, pause with the clutch to make sure it is safe and then move out - or even creep further forwards.
Remember with clutch control
Up to go (faster) down to slow
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